With it’s glistening black sand beaches, wild surf breaks and acres of rice fields Canggu has until now, been one of the best kept secrets of long term Bali residents, and offers a stark contrast to it’s chaotic neighbour Seminyak
Just north of the Kuta chaos in an area hidden away from the eyes of most holidaymakers is the emerald oasis of Canggu. The kind of Bali that only long-term residents can remember with its wide-open spaces and unobstructed ocean views.
Canggu is a sleepy, endless stretch of green, with traditional villages, rice paddies and virgin beaches devoid of the trappings of the rampant development to the south. No longer seen as being too far from town, interest in this area is increasing steadily and Canggu is fast becoming one of Bali’s most talked about secrets.
Canggu has been well known in surfing circles for many years for its notoriously huge break and has for the longest time been deserted except for a few villas and the odd surfer warung. But all that is changing, and fast. Located just 45 minutes from Bali’s International Airport and only ten minutes from fashionable Seminyak, this corner of green offers a chance to step back in time to a Bali of old while still being only a stones throw from the action.
Canggu seems to be a loose term among the real estate community, with a general opinion that the area comprises anywhere north of Umalas and Kerobokan and stretching as far as Tanah Lot. Investor interest is rising with many new luxury developments and private houses being built, pushing land prices as they go. Consequently land has doubled in value in the last three to four years. Despite this, developers are quick to point out that their vision is to keep Canggu relatively unchanged by building villas on larger parcels of land and restricting the numbers of Villas built on each site.
Paradise Property has a cluster of developments under way in Canggu and is aiming to preserve the integrity of the area. Andy Gray from Paradise Property says, “We are looking to the long-term with developments on bigger land, putting more thought into preserving the land and being more eco-friendly.” He adds that one example of this is, “to lease adjacent land from the farmers on the basis that they continue farming. It’s beneficial for everyone because the surrounding area remains protected.”
Bali Villa Worldwide has six developments currently in Canggu consisting of 12 units in five locations running from 15 to 45 are and run anywhere from $300,000 to $2.5 million. Emerald Estates near Berawa, which comprises two villas on 20 are each with river and sea views, is one such development. Yves Champommier of BVW says, “Our villas represent what people have in mind when they think of Bali,” and reckons that what Canggu has to offer is one of the islands main assets.
For the private buyer wanting their own home, “the areas showing the most interest centre around three main areas, Canggu Tua, Padang Linjong and Pererenan,” according to Abdoul Hakim from In Touch Realty. Land one block from the beach is priced at IDR 150 Million per ARE down to IDR 70 Million per ARE for land with rice field views, which says Abdoul, “is establishing a new benchmark for the area”.
Arnout Gishler of Terra Fidelium says that, “60 percent of people are looking for land and 40 percent are looking for houses, and most people have a budget of between $200,000 to $300,000.”
With rising construction costs due to ever-increasing fuel prices it may be a wise choice to take advantage of properties that are already built and on the market and thus being sold at cheaper prices.
Canggu’s infrastructure is still in its adolescence but already there are a large number of facilities emerging on the landscape with a growing selection of dining and recreation venues, reflecting the increased interest.
The most obvious and talked about is the Canggu Club offering world-class social, sports and lifestyle activities for individuals and families alike. The club boasts a floodlit outdoor sports arena, a swimming pool, a multi-function indoor sports hall, tennis and squash courts, a gymnasium along with a five star restaurant, a traditional pub and a pool side café. For parents needing to think about education Canggu Community School is located adjacent to the Canggu Club and offers high quality educational facilities for children at all levels.
A new approach on the resort scene is Desa Seni with a personal touch that is all too often forgotten in many of the major developments. What they offer is a touch of the real Indonesia. The owners are experts in Indonesian housing, furniture and design, have created a village haven comprised of 12 traditional Indonesian Joglo’s set amongst sweeping rice fields.
With a total lack of surrounding walls minimising the visual impact on the surrounds, they provide all the creature comforts one would expect from a luxury resort while retaining the charm and integrity of the original form. Some of the features are a five star restaurant, Yoga classes, a cultural centre and organic vegetable gardens.
For dining there is the Beach House at Echo Beach with their famous sunset barbecue and relaxed indoor/ outdoor dining right on one of Bali’s most breathtaking surf beaches. Newly opened at Pantai Berawa behind the Legong Beach Hotel is Sukerti’s restaurant, bringing long-term Bali resident Paul Burrows’ personal blend of Modern International cuisine and fine wines to the area. Featuring the artwork of well-known local artist Ogut, this tastefully designed eatery is the latest addition offering to tempt people away from Seminyak’s restaurant monopoly. Even the surfer warungs are answering the call with Café Dian at Echo Beach offering arguably some of the best fish’n’chips in Bali.
Along with Villa Tugu near Berawa these restaurants serve to offer some of the best locations for dining on the Canggu coast.
Local resident and video producer Robert Koster came to Bali two years ago after five years in downtown Tokyo and immediately took up residence in Canggu. He says that of all the areas in southwest Bali, “Canggu retains a mixture of beauty through its people, open rice fields, empty beaches and greenery. The distance from town is nothing compared to the serenity and peace that I find out here.”
What will be the effect on rampant development in this pristine area? Sources suggest that the current green belt zoning extension has been confirmed, protecting the priceless views and land from development in the near future until at least 2012.
Hopefully common sense and an eye for what makes this place the jewel in the Emerald crown of Bali will prevail and keep Canggu from becoming like so many other areas before it.
With many developers and a savvy buying public taking note of what Canggu represents, the beauty of the area may well be in safe hands. – HOT!
By Thomas Jones Photographs by: Richard Mortimer
